Our SPOT tracker is not working at the moment, so we are on the hunt for new batteries. No worries, we survived a full week with Ellen & Wiebke and are safe and sound in Tbilisi. The plan is to head off to Azerbaijan in a couple of days. More news and pictures will follow soon!
After queuing for three hours and making about twelve new Turkish friends, we crossed the border to Georgia.
We headed for Batumi, a pleasant seaside town which played a huge role in the oil business in the late 19th century. All the oil coming from Baku was transported by train to Batumi where it continued further by boat over the Black Sea.
We read somewhere that we could get our Azeri visa in Batumi, without a letter of invitation. So we headed for the consulate, filled in the forms and got the visa the next day! Saved another 120$! We will put it in Willem’s savings account for future repairs...
Cognac and cars don’t go together well...
We headed north towards Tsiashi, a small town with natural hot springs. Signposting is not a very Georgian thing to do, so we ended up combing the area by car to find the springs. We saw some steam coming out of a pipe, got out of the car wondering if this was supposed to be the place. Genadi, who lives next to the spring, saw our puzzled looks and welcomed us into his garden. He showed us his big green house, sponsored by an Israelian company. The green house is being kept hot and humid with the water coming from the hot springs. This way he has fresh fruit and vegetables all year round. Also, the whole village has hot water because of these springs.
After a long chat in Russian, English, Polish and lots of gestures and home made food and cognac, we thanked Genadi for the great afternoon and parked next to the river around the corner for a nap. We went for a puddle in the hot spring “bath” and got ready to continue our trip to the north. But, we didn’t notice the swampy grassland when we drove down to the river, and we couldn’t get back up the hill! We got stuck in the mud up to the doors of the car, and winging did not prove to be an option. We went back to Genadi who helped to get a tractor of a friend to pull us out. It was an ancient fossile tractor, but it did the job and even received some applause. Genadi didn’t allow us to continue towards Svaneti and insisted we’d stay with him and his family. Thanks to you all for the great afternoon, evening and morning!
The car was totally covered in mud after this swamp adventure, so Willem was in desperate need of a wash. Shiny like new, we set off to Mestia in the Svaneti mountains. Svaneti is almost like a little country within Georgia, with it’s own language and special food. The landscape is marked by many defensive towers which were used to house the villagers in times of war.
We stayed at a campsite with lots of fanatic hikers and felt we had to at least follow one of the trails. We decided on an eight hour trek to a couple of mountain lakes. We never did reach the lakes but managed to get to 2543 meters! This is the highest we’ve ever been so far. Crazy to imagine we will be driving at heights of 4000 meters on the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan...
The next day we drove towards Adishi. We tried to get to it over the mountain range, but at 3000 meters high the road ended and even Willem couldn’t get us any further. We enjoyed the view, played a game of Yahtzee in the car and drove back to reach Adishi through the pass. It was a beautiful drive over a very rocky road. The tiny town is lovely; nine families live there only in the summertime and the cows and pigs follow you curiously as you go around the tiny alleys.
We hobbled back to Mestia and drove back to the south to visit the amazing Vardzia cave city. To get there we had to drive over a gorgeous mountain pass with wooden cottages. They are developing the area by building ski resorts, but we are wondering how cars will get there in the wintertime, over these seriously crazy, narrow and damaged roads...
We continued through the most beautiful valley to get to the cave city. An impressive place; over 400 monks used to live in these caves in Byzantine times, and a few still live there today. The cave church is still being used and we were lucky to bump into a bearded monk in a big black robe who opened the doors for us to have a look. He waited outside talking on the phone via his headset. A funny sight.
Below the cave city and next to the valley river was a nice place to spend the night. We met Meris and his family from Lithuania. He organises 4x4 safari’s and was doing some research to maybe do some off road trips outside of his country in future. We sampled some Lithuanian spirits and chatted about his off road plans by the campfire.
In the meantime...
We are fascinated by the way the Georgians bake bread, it looks so pretty!
We noticed that Caucasian cars look like the cars you drew as a child; square and simple. But it’s a miracle how all the Lada’s survive these roads! We try to avoid the biggest gaps and criss cross the “road” to spare the tires, while in the meantime being overtaken by a Lada!
We suspect that the Georgians learn how to drive a car with one arm out of the window at all times. Even when the window is half up, the armpit must be on show. Because driving with two hands on the wheel is not done here.
Actually, we suspect that the Georgians don’t take driving lessons at all...they drive like serious madmen here...cutting corners, overtaking at the worst possible time with near-death experiences as a result, creating five lanes on a two lane road, overtaking on the right when you are waiting for the traffic lights, and so on and so on. Never thought I’d say this, but Bucharest was better.
We actually crossed the border to Georgia a few days ago, so we felt it was time for a big catch-up on the adventure stories. Browsing through our pictures and notebook, we feel we have left Turkey with the warmest, funniest and loveliest memories...so many beautiful and kind people, pretty villages, good jokes and amazing landscapes, we wouldn't mind spending another month here!
We packed away our snorkels and left the sea side to continue further towards the east. The landscape and the way people look changed with every 100 km, and the sun got hotter and hotter. We stopped at a petrol station completely exhausted from the dust and the heat. There we met Ulan; a cow tradesman, who also trades car parts and has his own fruit and veg business. He offered us to stay the night at his house and proudly showed us his cows. One of them didn't know yet, but it would be its last night in the shed; she was scheduled to go to the butcher's the next morning. No wonder Ulan struggled to get her into the truck!
A small pit stop at the Denizli Mitsubishi car service was made (yep...) and we met Osman, who kindly helped us to translate everything AND who told us NOT to continue BEFORE seeing Pamukkale. And how right he was...it was amazing to see the bright white landscape and turquoise pools in the middle of the dry sandy surroundings...
It probably also was the most touristy place we had visited so far. An excellent moment to start a new chapter in our picture taking madness: taking "OPP's" (Other People's Pictures). It's the best thing to do not to get annoyed with Russian tourists. You can find the result here. Be warned; this is serious business (to the people in the pictures!) Here's a fine example:
We escaped the bright sun and stopped at Lake Eğirdir. We stopped at a car park right next to the lake and met Ton and Leo, from HELMOND! They do say there is a chance to meet your neighbours when you're on holidays but this is crazy. They are travelling with their mobile home and enjoying the local way of life in each village they visit. And, they know my dad. (pap, ik heb het er nog even over met je!)
It has been a dream for a long time to wake up to the balloons hoovering over the beautiful rocks in Cappadocia...We arrived late at night and parked the car at one of the panorama points in Göreme. Not knowing this would be the perfect spot to wake up at. A little tear of happiness when we woke up at 5:15 to see the first bubble-like contours in the rising sun...
We explored the fairy chimneys, dived into the deep underground villages, marvelled at the churches with their beautiful frescoes, climbed inside the pigeon houses and wandered through monastery valleys...We met Ahmet who happily showed us all the secret passageways, wells and other farmer's apricot orchards. It was fantastic...Willem easily managed the off road paths leading to the best viewpoint spots. We enjoyed a nice glass of Turkish wine on a gorgeous plateau in the middle of the wild rocks and saw the balloons go by at 20 meter distance the next morning...A small fairytale...
We headed north towards the Black Sea coast. It was a bit of a trek, so we made sure to add a few stop-overs along the way. Good thing we did this, otherwise we would have missed the "Balikli Kaplica"; a little river where you can puddle between little fish who clean your whole body!! Tomek put on his tiny '70s swimming trunks and happily jumped in to sit between all the hairy men in the men's part. I on the other hand, carefully sat down in the water in the women's and children part, fully clothed! I was invited to sit with the men in the end, where there were even more little fish nibbling away on you arms and legs. Wonder why...
In the meantime...
We accidentally deleted the shower picture...sorry Ellen en Hanneke!
çay-loving folks. It's kind of like Rummicub (ja mam en Petit, jullie zouden hier heeel goed in zijn) but it's more like Fase 10 but without the cards (Wieb, El, Han, ik zeg Turkije volgende zomer?)
I bought my first Anatolian trousers at a market in Eğirdir. They're great (literally great, they stretch out to fit three people) Spot the flowery pattern in the pictures; the Turkish ladies approvingly nod and compliment me when I wear them!
Tomek also has a new outfit, but that's a more permanent one : )
After having spent ten days in the hectic city of Istanbul, we picked up our car and decided it was time for some serious seaside lounging. But we didn't leave before discovering the Istanbul nightlife with Fatih. He took us to a delicious Şiş restaurant for a long dinner. We tasted the most amazing lamb meat and roasted vegetables, accompanied by, of course, a nice glass of Lion's Milk (Raki).
Suddenly rain started pouring down and we had to run through the Beyoglu streets to the next place; a reggea club on the top floor of a six story building. We danced till we couln't dance anymore and saw the sun come up while the taxi was taking us over the Bosphorus bridge. Thanks again Fatih, for the great night!
A friend of Fatih told us about the island of Burgazada, one of the Princess Islands in the Sea of Marmaris. We decided to have a look, packed the tent and took the ferry. We arrived when the sun was setting and found a nice little beach where we could put up the tent. There was a bachelor party of a young couple and we were invited to sit with them. We made a campfire and chatted in the evening sea breeze.
The next morning we met the old man who spends his days on that beach. He has a little hut where he displays all the things he finds on the beach. With the biggest, kindest and proudest smile he pointed to the sea which he calls "Factory", and then to his hut which he calls "Museum".chatting over çay...
In the afternoon we met up with Simon, a German guy who works for the German Ministery of Foreign Affaires in Istanbul. He had lived and worked in Kyrgystan for three years and had lots of information to share. Thanks Simon, for all your tips and maps!
We had to spend one more night in Istanbul before our visa for Kazachstan were ready. We looked for a camping spot close to the consulate, but unfortunately the campsite that once was there, closed down many years ago. (They forgot to take away the signs though..) Luckily, a very kind man arranged for us to stay at a parking next to his restaurant. We took an evening stroll directly under the flight path of the Atatürk airport. Crazy how close the planes were and how many kept on coming to land! And an even bigger airport is currently under construction...
We woke up and were offered çay and simit peynir (breadroll with sesame and cheese) by the parking guard. The start of another wonderful day in Turkey.
We continued our journey towards the historically important Gelibolu peninsula where we had some fishing lessons of a local fisherman. The secret is the three-hook-system; triples your chances! Apparently "ensis" (a straight razor shape shell - scheermesjes) function as excellent bate. And it proved to work! We caught ourselves a lovely dinner.
It's bizarre to realise what an important piece of Turkey this peninsula has been in history. The Dardanelles waterway between the peninsula and the mainland forms a gateway straight to Istanbul and was heavily attacked (and protected) during world war I. It is at this point that Atatürk proved a true hero protecting his land. He became the founder of the modern Turkish state. You cannot pass a street without seeing his image, he is the country's biggest hero.
The next morning, we took the ferry to Asia. (Always wanted to write that!) It sounds impressive but in fact it was a 20 minute boat crossing from Eceabat to
We followed a tip of Piotrek from the 4x4 garage in Wroclaw and browsed around the Edremite Bay for the best spots. We ended up in a beautiful lagoon style waterfall close to Adatepe. Many Turkish families were having their afternoon picnic there (of course!) and we spent the afternoon sharing melons and stories.
The peninsula at Ayvalik is a popular place for fishing and diving. We checked with a local fishing shop for the best spots and got a small map to find our way. At one point the road just stopped and you could walk to the next island!
The landscape there is surreal, such dry land and such a blue sea. Harpoon fishing is big here, we met a few guys who were chasing sea bass in the bay where we put up our tent. Unfortunately
In the meantime...
We discovered that the Turkish love their wheelcaps. Preferably the shiny, rotating, sticking-out-Ben-Hur-style type of wheelcaps...
We became addicted to our hammock...
It's huge and fantastic. (Although Tomek prefers not to share it) If you ever consider getting one, get it from here.
This is how we do our dishes; at roadside waterpoints whilst surrounded by curious goats and picnicking Turkish families:
We had many requests on how we shower, picture will follow soon : )
Yes, we are in Istanbul. And no, we have not been arrested or batted down by the police. It is a special time to be in Istanbul, with the atmosphere in Taksim square changing from confrontational to peaceful festival-like to radical. Here's an article which I think describes the situation nicely.
The people we speak to in the streets are talking about the protests a lot and there's lots of police around. But outside Taksim square, the Istanbul tourists are still queing to see all the pretty sights.
Kilyos on the Karadeniz
We are staying on a campsite in a tiny town on the Black Sea coast; Kilyos. The town has one main streets with little cafe's, restaurants and shops. We've been staying here for over a week now and we're sampling all the places, every day we make a new friend to say hello to the next morning.
Kilyos is a perfect place from where to visit Istanbul. You can take the bus or a crazy fastdriving, people hanging out of the open door-type minibus. We tend to choose the latter. We visited Istanbul a couple of times and wandered round to discover and explore.
On one of our walks around we passed Aponia, a cool T-shirt shop & coffee place & alternative city information in one. We started chatting to the owner and designer of the graphic tee's; Fatih. He's such a nice guy and his place is a real meetingspot for people. He was proudly testing his barista skills on us and we left the place many hours later, to come back again the next day.
What was also very nice of the campsite at Kilyos, is that we met a really friendly Belgian guy called Rochdi. He is travelling to India with his motorbike, mostly staying at people's homes through couchsurfing. You can check his blog here. We had lots of laughs and late night BBQ's. It was a pleasure and we look forward to meet him again along the way!
In the meantime...
We visited a few consulates in Istanbul and are now the proud owner of a Tajik and Kazak visa! This feels weird, because it seems so far away...
We had our first Raki night, true Turkish style. A family in Kilyos invited us to join them for tea, after which we got a big plate with köfte, grilled lambchops, potato, yoghurt and melon. And the funny uncle made us drink raki till the bottle was finished...
We discovered that what looks like a children’s playground here is in most cases a colorful outdoor fitness center. Headscarved ladies and men with sweatpants train off their baklava here from dusk till dawn. Not a bad passtime if you’re looking out over the Bosphorus.
I still have to cough everytime I smoke a waterpipe. Tomek however looks completely cool and comfortable puffing away the apple tobacco. Well, I guess I'll have to find something else to excel in.
We checked with a few truckers at the Bulgarian roadside whorehouse (see previous post) if we could take extra diesel in the rooftop jerrycans into Turkey. But all of them said we would be fined if we did. Wish we had filled up in Bulgaria though, the guys at the border only walked round the car once, had a friendly chat and quickly looked inside one of the rooftop boxes (cleverly ignoring my drying underwear which was displayed on the mattress in the back of the car). Collected the visa sticker and stamps et voila; merhaba Turkey.
We headed for Kıyıköy, a small fisherman village on the Black Sea coast. Its former name was “Midye”, which also is the Turkish word for mussel. Many foodstalls sell cooked midye stuffed with rice and served with a big squeeze of lemon juice. Fantastic.
It was dark by the time we arrived in the village and we weren’t sure if there was a campsite. But we spotted a drawn map of the town in a restaurant which also mentioned a campsite. By that time it was almost midnight and we were lucky to find some tea drinking men who pointed us in the right direction. At least, that’s what we thought. We parked the car and slept like a rock. The next morning we had the best breakfast with olives, cheese, omelet, tomatoes and chili’s.
We took a stroll and found out that the campsite was actually 300 meters further down the road, right next to the beach. It looked like a tent camp village where Turkish families permanently live in summertime. The tents are fascinating constructions of caravans, blankets, pallets and plastic furniture combined. The Turks do appreciate their seaside.
In the meantime...
We discovered why the engine was overheating all the time. The local Mitsubishi service is taking care of that after explaining them what the problem was with our technical Pajero picture book in hand.
We found out that picnics are huge here. As soon as the day starts, every patch of grass starts filling up with families with huge supplies of food. And a BBQ. Great habit.
We discovered that “Kokoreç” looks like döner but is actually sheep’s intestines in kebab disguise. The food stall owner proudly (and closely) watched us finishing the dish till the very last bite.
Bulgaria…we did need some time to find our place here. Romania had been such a fantastic experience. No more waving, smiling villagers and lots of rain kind of tainted our time in Bulgaria.
But it wasn’t all bad of course. We were amazed by the churches of Ivanovo. They are carved out of canyons by monks in the 13th century and are beautifully decorated with frescoes of orthodox scenes.
Stara Planina mountains
Bulgaria has a long mountain range which reaches from the west all the way to the coast of the Black Sea; the Stara Planina mountains. We packed our backpacks for a 3-day hike to get to the Botev peak. After the first climb we arrived at Pleven hut. The hostel was fully packed with about 80 Bulgarian beer drinking, pilav eating students and Bulgarian hip hop filled the dining area. Good moment to find a nice place for our little orange tent on the meadow outside of the hostel.
The next day we set off for the second climb. The day started out fine, but the mountain tops were hardly visible in the mist. After about four hours we reached the mountain ridge. It started raining like crazy, centimeter big hail balls were hitting us on the head and there really wasn't anywhere to hide. We decided to head back, and again, eating frietjes with cheese was the only thing we could do to make up for the disappointment of not reaching Botev peak.
In the meantime...
We noticed that Bulgarians shake their head when they mean “yes”.
We discovered that we cannot understand the Bulgarian signposting, food labels in the supermarket and restaurant menu's. Must get started on the “hoe en wat in het Russisch”.
We played our first game of ping pong since October!
We discovered that the roadside petrol station we stopped at for lunch was actually a brothel. The kitschy castle shaped “restaurant” should have been taken as a clue…After a warm welcome and a few inviting winks of the ladies to Tomek’s address, we had our lunch and Willem got a full car wash, executed by the pimp himself. Our Bulgarian highlight.
We left the snowy mountains and on headed for sunny Bucharest. On our way we visited a small fishing shop. The guys there had lots of things to expand our fishing collection, and some good tips for fishing spots in the area. We followed their directions and arrived at an old communist holiday park that was still open, but looked completely deserted. The lady that overlooked the grounds was ok with us staying in the park. We found ourselves a nice spot next to the lake and got the fishing rods out. It wasn’t the best spot for a swimming dinner, all we caught was lots of plants. But we did have our private pier and we made lots of new dog friends.
Arriving in Bucharest by car is a quick way to test your reaction skills. The traffic is CRAZY. A nice and easy introduction to the rest of the cities we will be driving through I suppose…
We parked the car to take a breather and have a coffee. Tomek spotted this Landcruiser HDJ 80 (which he is crazy about, and can’t wait to get one for a next trip – but don’t tell Willem, we need him). Vali, the proud owner of the car spotted us spotting and came out for a chat. He’s such a nice guy, with lots of inspiring stories about his country. He organizes off road trips through Romania, check out the amazing pictures here.
We stayed at Andra, a girl I met in Amsterdam. She is really busy at the moment with the opening of her own shop http://wardrobe-b.ro/ but she took the time to take us to a nice pop-up dinner in the city. Thanks for having us Andra!
More garage visits!
Unfortanately, our car needed a little reparing again. We discovered a small leak and the back breaks were not fitted properly. Vali introduced us to the off-roading scene in Bucharest and helped us to get the repairs done. We were in the tiniest garage in the busiest street. Four men had to stand on Willem’s back bumper to make sure the car was low enough to enter the garage. But it worked out, and we were ready for Bulgaria.
Romania is beautiful. It must be said. The scenery and the people are like in an old-fashioned picture book. There are so many amazing colors; the painted houses, the old granny’s dresses, the pots and pans on sticks in the garden, the flowers and the beautiful green hills. Everywhere we go Willem is welcomed with a smile and a wave (and sometimes a pointed finger and a jaw-drop).
Our first encounter with Romania started in Maramures. I read about a campsite owned by a Dutch couple on Lidewij Edelkoort’s Trend Tablet. We decided to go to this lovely campsite in Breb in the heart of the beautiful area Maramures.
The car had some trouble with the first big mountain pass which led to the tiny paths of Breb. We reached the campsite with smoke coming from under the hood!
It does feel like time stood still here. So many tiny villages where all the people are out on the streets and the most amazing wooden houses with carved front doors. Lots of old ladies with skirts in pretty flower patterns. The campsite is actually named after a granny just like that; Babou Maramures.
The owners Matthijs and Eveline fell in love with an old farm house and decided to transform it into a campsite. The old baboushka built the house together with her husband over 60 years ago. It must be rather odd to see guests sleeping in a hostel which used to be the cow shed that you built with your own hands.
Maramures has many churches and monestaries. And lot’s of them are on the Unesco list. We drove the tiniest roads, it’s great to travel in a 4x4 car!! You get to see all these beautiful tiny villages and painted wooden churches…
On one of our village drives we passed a tiny shed. Two broadly smiling men were waving us inside. They were making vodka in huge copper kettles on a wood fire. Tomek spotted the kettles from the street, the true Pole he is. Of course we had to taste their apple Tuică and we got out our daddy Szugzdzinis home made bottle as a comparison. We left with rosy cheeks…
The vodka encounter did delay our plan to cross a mountain pass to the next valley to find a nice spot to sleep. We decided to cross the pass in the evening, but it wasn’t the best plan so far. It took us over two hours to cross it, in pitch black and with mist hanging around the mountain top. We saw a campfire on the way, and people coming our way as they heard the car. At first we thought they were sheep herders spending the night in the mountains with their flock. But it was a gypsy camp! We were a little bit anxious when ten people were standing by the car, but they pointed us in the right way and we gave them some food. Quite a bizar encounter.
We headed further south towards Transylvania and visited the beautiful city Sigishoara where Dracula is said to have been born. The enthusiastic man at the church door in Sigishoara told us we must see Viscri, a small town with a beautiful old wooden church and lots of handknitting ladies. Again, so many beautiful colors, old buildings and cobbled streets…
And then it was time to check if the Transfagarasan Road really IS closed till June…and it wasn’t!! We almost got to the top of the road, where a tunnel at 2000 meters high leads to the other side of the mountain. The tunnel was closed and so was the last part of the road leading to it. Big bulks of snow and crazy weather which changed all the time form mist and rain to hail and snow. We decided that the best thing to do was to eat some frietjes and head back down.
In the meantime…
We had our second police stop! This time because Tomek was driving too fast…we nearly got a fine of 100 euros and they threatened to take his license for a month. But we got away with it, this time…
We got used to the horse and carriages being part of the normal traffic on the motorway.
We experienced A LOT of almost accidents where crazy Romanians were overtaking in impossible situations.
We think we heard a bear in the woods when we were looking for mushrooms, but we’re not sure. As we didn’t want to get any closer to explore, we decided we should check the actual bear sound on YouTube, just to be sure next time.
We discovered that pretzls are BIG here. They’re being sold out of a small window inside a big shop window, which is kind of strange.
We witnessed a pig slaughtering! We stayed at a campsite close to Sibiu. The neighbours brought in a live pig for the Sunday roast and we heard it shriek as they killed it. We didn’t stay around for the roast but it’s a strange way to wake up to a scene like this.
Leaving sunny Wroclaw was hard...we spent a really nice time with Ania and Sergiusz, and Damian showed me around the best shoarma places in town.
We had to do a final repair check after the muddy adventures in the woods, thanks Piotrek for having us at your Garaz 4x4.
Thanks again guys, for all your help, hospitality and jokes!!
We drove to the south of Poland and found our first camping spot in the dark. (Those big spotlights on the side of the roofrack were a pretty good idea...) It was great to wake up next to a little river and a sunny sky! Ready for the Tatra mountains...
We headed for Zakapone and got ready for an "easy hike" to start off with. But, don't be fooled by the numerous girls in flipflops and hotpants with a can of beer in hand (which seems to be the local attire for mountain hiking). The trail we took was still partially covered in snow and had huge waterfalls where the melted snow splashed down into the valley. It was beautiful..until I fell and hit my head (don't worry mums and dads, nothing serious). Did have a scan at the hospital, just in case, but everything was fine. Got a nice souvenir on my forehead now : )
We drove further south east towards Hungaria, where we had our first road side police check. I was driving and got my driver's license out with trembling hands, but all was fine. If all road checks will be as easy as this one, I'm sure we'll be ok. It's not that you can temporarely hide the huge car with all its extra's and the bright blue door as soon as you see police by the side of the road. To the police we must look like the catch of the day...
In the meantime...
My packing skills proved to be far from ideal. We watched numerous videos on YouTube of well organised couples mentioning their car rule number one: "to get to the thing you need you only have to move one other item". In our case we had to move at least seven things and we never managed to get everything back into the same place again. A big re-organization plan was executed. We'll see how it works out over the next couple of days.
I drove a 18km long serpentine road without crying! Tomek is proud although he would never say it out loud. (haarspeldjes mam, nog meer dan in Frankrijk! Tajikistan here we come!)
I learnt how to chop down a twig. I would have loved to write "tree" here but apparently I need a bit more practice. I do have my own mini-axe though, which Tomek gladly shows to anyone who's interested (or not) before he climbs onto the roof rack, smirking, to pull out his own big axe. Hey, got to start somewhere.
Our SPOT tracking system works! Here you can see where we are and and you can keep track till the next post! x